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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.