Young Local Artisans Injecting Vibrant Spirit into the Isle of Skye's Culinary Landscape
With its striking, jagged mountain skyline, curving roads and unpredictable weather, the Isle of Skye has always drawn adventure seekers. In recent years, nevertheless, the biggest island in the Inner Hebrides has been pulling in visitors for additional factors – its dynamic food and drink scene. Leading the way are emerging Sgitheanach (people from Skye) with a international perspective but a commitment to local, sustainable ingredients. This is also driven by an active community eager to create quality, permanent jobs that retain young people on the island.
An Enthusiasm for Local Produce
Calum Montgomery is a native of the island, and he’s deeply committed to showcasing the island’s larder on his menus. “For those traveling to the island I want them to value the landscape, but also the quality of our offerings,” he says. “The local seafood including mussels, lobster, scallops and crab are unsurpassed.” He honors tradition: “It means everything to me to use the identical products as my forebears. My granddad was a fisherman who caught lobster and we’re experiencing seafood from the exact same sea lochs, with the equal appreciation for ingredients.”
Montgomery’s Island Flavors menu details the distances his produce has travelled. Patrons can enjoy plump scallops dived by hand in Loch Greshornish (direct from the source), and trapped in creels lobster from Portree (12 miles) with vegetables, foraged herbs and blossoms from the garden from the kitchen garden and seashore (zero miles). That connection to ingredients and growers is essential. “A short while ago I took a apprentice out with a shellfish forager so he could learn what they do. We opened scallops directly from the sea and ate them raw with a dash of citrus. ‘This is the finest scallop I’ve ever eaten,’ he said. It is this experience that we want to bring to the restaurant.”
Gastronomic Pioneers
Traveling south, in the presence of the mighty Cuillin mountains, a further food representative for Skye, an innovative restaurateur, runs a bustling café. In the past year she showcased Scottish cuisine at a celebrated international culinary festival, offering shellfish buns with spirit-infused butter, and haggis quesadillas. She first started her café in another location. Coming back to Skye during the pandemic, a short-term residencies proved there was a demand here too.
During a meal featuring a signature creation and exquisite citrus-marinated fish, Coghill notes: “I’m really proud that I opened in an urban setting, but I found it challenging to achieve what I can do here. Getting local goods was a huge mission, but here the seafood come straight from the sea to my door. My local fisherman only speaks to me in Gaelic.” Her affection for Skye’s ingredients, community and landscape is evident across her bright, imaginative dishes, all imbued with local flavours, with a touch of local culture. “My connection to Gaelic culture and dialect is incredibly significant,” she says. Patrons can use little lesson cards on the tables to pick up a few words while they eat.
Several locals worked elsewhere. We witnessed the produce be delivered far from where it was landed, and it’s just not as good
Blending Old and New
Skye’s more longstanding culinary spots are continuing to evolve. A charming inn operated by a local family in her family’s ancestral home has traditionally been a culinary hotspot. The owner's mother writes popular books on Scottish cookery.
The kitchen regularly introduces new ideas, with a dynamic young team headed by an talented kitchen leader. When they’re not in the kitchen the chefs cultivate herbs and spices in the hotel glasshouse, and forage for edible weeds in the grounds and coastal plants like coastal greens and beach plants from the water's edge of a nearby loch. In autumn they follow woodland routes to find wild mushrooms in the forest.
Guests can sample island-harvested shellfish, pak choi and nuts in a flavorful stock; Shetland cod with seasonal spears, and house-smoked lobster. The hotel’s activity leader accompanies visitors for experiences including wild food gathering and catch-and-release trips. “There is significant demand for immersive activities from our visitors,” says the hotel representative. “Guests are eager to come and really get to know the island and the natural environment.”
Beyond the Kitchen
The distilling sector is also playing a role in keep local youth on Skye, in jobs that extend past the summer period. An operations manager at a island whisky producer explains: “Seafood farming was a big employer in the past, but now most of the jobs are mechanized. Real estate values have increased so much it’s challenging for new generations to remain. The distilling business has become a crucial employer.”
“Opportunities in distilling, training provided” was the announcement that a then 21-year-old island resident spotted in her regional publication, landing her a job at the spirits facility. “I just took a punt,” she says, “It was surprising I’d get a distillery position, but it was a dream of mine.” She had an interest in whisky, but no relevant qualifications. “To be able to receive hands-on instruction and study digitally was transformative.” Today she is a key team member, helping to train trainees, and has developed her personal blend using a specialty malt, which is developing in oak at the time of writing. In other distilleries, that’s an recognition usually granted to retiring distillers. The tasting room and coffee shop employ many people from around the surrounding area. “We become part of the community because we brought the community here,” says a {tour guide manager|visitor experience lead|hospital